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COSTA VICENTINA

Cultural Importance

To the south, AlmaVerde borders the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina, a sparsely populated ecological preserve of outstanding natural beauty. Created in 1995, the Costa Vicentina covers an area of 74,785 hectares and runs along 150 kilometres of Atlantic seaboard, forming one of the last true coastal wildernesses in Europe. Varying in width from two to twenty kilometres, the Natural Park stretches from Burgau in the south east as far as São Torpes beach, just south of Sines in the north west.

It is protected by strict planning controls, with no development permitted beyond existing urban limits. It also lies within the recently created Rede Natura 2000, a European-wide network of habitats for the protection of wildlife.

The Costa Vicentina is characterised by a succession of sandy and rocky beaches backed by high cliffs, with deep ravines and seasonal watercourses. It encompasses a diverse array of habitats, including woodlands of oak, alder and pine, heath, scrub, marshes, estuaries, enormous sand dune systems, offshore islands and the ocean floor itself.

It is a naturalist’s paradise, rich in wildlife and unique flora, including many rare and endangered species. Maintained today in an excellent state of conservation, free from pollution and the threat of mass tourism or other industries, the Costa Vicentina stands as a pillar of Portugal’s natural and cultural heritage.

The cultural importance of the Costa Vicentina can most clearly be seen in the Sagres area, for it is here, at the beginning of the 15th century, that Prince Henry the Navigator established his Navigation School and planned his epochal voyages of discovery. The church of Nossa Senhora de Graça and the fortress, both standing on the Ponta de Sagres, are witness to the events of the period. The fortress is now a museum celebrating the history of the area and its role in early navigation.

Cape St. Vincent

Cabo de São Vicente (Cape St. Vincent), 6 km from Sagres, marks the south westerly tip of Europe, and is an essential landmark for any ship travelling to the Mediterranean.

Perched on top of the dramatic 80 metre high cliffs, the Cape St. Vincent lighthouse guards one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes. Built in 1846 on the site of a 16th century Franciscan convent, and electrified in 1906, its two 1kW lamps are magnified by concentric rows of prisms, enabling a 10 foot tall beam of light to be projected 60 km out to sea, and making it the second most powerful lighthouse in Europe.

Battle of St. Vincent

Many sea battles have been fought off this cape, and it was Horatio Nelson’s dramatic action in the 1797 battle of Cape St. Vincent that secured victory and helped to establish his reputation as one of England’s greatest naval heroes.

In the battle, a squadron of fifteen ships was led by Admiral Sir John Jervis (later Earl St. Vincent) against a numerically far superior Spanish fleet. He fell on them as they were running for Cadiz and divided their line into two parts. From his flagship, HMS Victory, he ordered his ships to tack in succession to prevent the gap from being closed. Nelson, last but two in the line, saw that this manoeuvre would not be completed in time and made a quick decision to turn his ship, HMS Captain, into the gap. He found himself facing seven Spanish ships. Through a hail of pistol and musket fire Nelson led boarding parties on to capture both the San Nicolas and San Josef. By nightfall four ships altogether had been taken and ten others crippled.

St. Vincent the martyr

The cape is named after St. Vincent, a young deacon in Saragossa during the time of the Roman persecution of Christian clergy. Vincent was cruelly tortured by the proconsul Dacian, then governor of Spain, but bore his repeated torments with such equanimity that Dacian wept with rage and frustration. No sooner did Dacian finally relent and allow Vincent some rest, than the young martyr expired. Dacian commanded his body to be thrown out upon a marshy field, but a raven defended it from beasts and birds of prey. Legend relates that the body was then cast into the sea in a sack, and was carried to shore at Cape St. Vincent and revealed to two Christians.

A chapel can be found inside the fortress, built on what is said to be the site of St. Vincent’s grave. The original temple was watched over by ten ravens, who never left it. Then, in the 12th century, the remains were exhumed and taken by ship to Lisbon to protect them from desecration by the Muslims. A raven is said to have kept constant vigil from the rigging of the ship. Because of this, the raven is still part of the insignia of both the city of Lisbon and of Vila do Bispo.

Ancient history

The area holds vestiges of Phoenician and Roman settlements, including a Roman site east of Praia do Martinhal, which specialised in the production of amphorae. Numerous menhirs reveal the presence of Neolithic man as far back as 4,000 BC. Near Salema, dinosaur footprints can be spotted in cliffs that bear witness to the Jurassic period.

From Baleeira, the fishing port of Sagres, local fishermen still set sail in colourful wooden fishing boats up to 20 metres in length. These waters around the peninsula, where warm Mediterranean currents meet cold Atlantic currents, are especially fertile. Nearby, on the shore, craftsmen use traditional techniques to restore older fishing boats as well as to build new ones.

The Sagres area is a mecca for birdwatchers and botanists alike, attracting visitors from all over the world (see Flora and Fauna).

Amongst other beauty spots within close striking distance of AlmaVerde, on the road between Vila do Bispo and Aljezur, is the village of Carrapateira. Nearby are the fine beaches of Praia do Amado and Praia de Bordeira. The latter has a large estuarine lagoon backed by huge sand dunes and old umbrella pine (pinus pinea) woodland.

Inland Southwest Algarve

Not to be overshadowed by the Costa Vicentina, the inland area of the south-western Algarve has much to offer. An excellent short drive, which takes in some of the best of the interior, can be had by turning north off the EN125 just west of AlmaVerde through the picturesque old villages of Barão de São Miguel and Barão de São João, to Bensafrim. In this predominantly agricultural landscape, smallholdings in the valleys, interspersed with patches of cork oak (quercus suber) woodland and meadows, create an idyllic rural scene. Continue north along the EN120 for 7 km after Bensafrim, and take the right turn to Pincho. The first few kilometres cross the wild cork forests of the Serra do Espinhaço de Cão ("Dog-spine mountains"), which support an extraordinary variety of flora and fauna.

After Pincho, a left turn, signposted to Marmelete, brings you out above the Barragem de Bravura, a large and picturesque stretch of reservoir water surrounded by rock rose (cistus ladanifer). The road continues to rise towards the Monchique mountains. Wild strawberry trees (arbutus unedo) line the road, indicating a more acid soil, the fruits forming the base for the famous liquor of the region, medronha. From Marmelete, you continue through a mature forested area to Casais and on to the town of Monchique itself. From here the road continues to rise, reaching the peak itself, Foia, at 902 metres. On a clear day, the 360 degree panorama of the whole of the western Algarve makes the trip more than worthwhile.


Links:
http://www.lpn.pt/
http://www.icn.pt/
http://www.naturlink.pt/


 
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